One of the things I’m most proud of as a mom of adult-ish kids is that they still want to spend time with me. Before you get too jealous, let me tell you the secret—get interested in things that interest them. For my sporty daughter, golf has become a hobby we share. During her fall break from college, we planned a golf trip to Ulster County to catch the changing colors and do a little reset before her midterms.
I’m going to get into the details of our trip very soon, but first, I want to start with where we planted ourselves for our three-day adventure—Diamond Mills Resort & Spa in Saugerties.
Discovering Saugerties, New York
New York is a massive state, and even if I dedicated my next ten years to exploring within the boundaries of the Empire State, I would never completely master it. Saugerties was new to me. A quick internet search got me up to speed on the history. The Dutch were among the first Europeans to settle in this area in the 1600s.
Fun fact: The name Saugerties comes from the Dutch for “little sawyer,” a reference to the area’s early sawmills.
In the 1800s, Saugerties prospered thanks to its proximity to water. Visitors like me find the winding Esopus Creek scenic and the Hudson River a great place for a boat ride. Back in the day, access to water helped the town power mills that produced paper, textiles, and other goods, and then ship them along the Hudson River. Thanks to that business success, locals prospered and built gorgeous homes and brick storefronts along the commercial streets. Much of the original architecture has been preserved, making the town ooze historical charm.
Over time, the mills closed and the town evolved into a country idyll, with much of its historic character intact. Unlike some of the fancier weekend spots that border NYC, Saugerties remains accessible to a range of budgets. Used bookstores are nestled in with fancy cocktail bars selling $20 Negronis.
And unlike some Hudson Valley towns that feel dominated by weekenders and second-home owners, Saugerties still has the feel of a real, lived-in community. For visitors to Ulster County, Saugerties makes a wonderful home base. Whether you’re after culture, food tours, or a bit of adventure like us, this town is a terrific launching pad.
Checking Into Diamond Mills Resort & Spa
We booked two nights at Diamond Mills Resort & Spa for our golf trip. The resort overlooks the Esopus Creek and Esopus Falls, making for a stunning backdrop. I arrived at the resort by crossing over the handsome, bright red Hill Street Bridge (you’ll want to wander back over it on foot to take some photos—there’s a pedestrian walkway). Pulling in, you see the BLACKBARN restaurant (serving farm-to-table New American cuisine with waterfall-view seating) and then the hotel entrance.
The quaint lobby has welcoming staff and a small lounge. The lounge is a nice place to grab a tea at night and enjoy the hearth, or step onto the outdoor deck and listen to the falls. In the morning, there’s a complimentary breakfast buffet with cereal, baked goods, fruit, coffee, and tea—enough to start your day off without a rumbling belly.
The rooms are spacious and thoughtfully designed. With plush beds, well-lit bathrooms, and a desk and coffee station that had me feeling mighty productive when I had a few work emails to fire off in the morning, the layout was equal parts functional and pretty.
A few little touches: The room had an honor bar and chocolate treats for us (we skipped the booze but said yes to the dark chocolate). And the closet had special cleaning cloths for riding boots. The area is known for its equestrian events, so it’s a thoughtful touch.
These were all appreciated, but the best feature was the view and nature’s soundtrack. We had a small terrace with a bistro table and two chairs and a stunning view of the falls. At night, we left our door cracked open to hear the rushing water as white noise.
Let’s Talk Location
While we didn’t try the restaurant on the property, we were thrilled that Diamond Mills Resort was steps away from some of the best dining and shopping in Saugerties: Partition Street. Partition Street and adjacent Main Street are pedestrian-friendly and filled with boutiques, bookstores, galleries, and some incredible dining options (my recommendations are coming in a follow up). For visitors like us who like to park once and then explore, this was ideal. Also notable: not a chain store in sight.
Our wanderings mostly ended with caffeine and new novels. Books and coffee? That’s my daughter’s love language.
A Little Adventure and a Lot of Relaxation
Our days were spent on the fairways and greens of nearby golf courses, but made time to explore one of the hotel’s best premium amenities—The Waterside Spa. The spa is a short drive (about five minutes) from the resort and not to be missed.
Before checking into the spa, we did a little side quest to make the most of the glorious fall morning. The Diamond Mills staff knew the area very well and suggested two hikes for us to try. We opted for the Esopus Bend Nature Preserve. After a few miles on the trail, it was time to head to the spa.
Set on the Esopus Creek, the spa property is made up of two brick buildings that have been lovingly restored. The first is the gym and events building. We swooned over the exposed beams, hardwood floors, and enormous windows overlooking the water. It was one of the most gorgeous gyms I’ve ever had the pleasure of sweating in!
We did a full workout (they have literally everything you’d want—free weights, treadmills, Peloton bikes, yoga mats, space to stretch, etc.) before heading back to the nearby spa building.
Note: The hotel does have a small fitness center on the lower level of the main building, and we used the treadmills down there one morning for a quick workout before golf. My advice is to head right to the spa for your workouts.
Before our treatments, we slipped into robes and swimsuits to enjoy the outdoor deck, pool, and thermal therapies—both a cold plunge and a sauna. As I sat on the deck reading my book after a sauna, I truly felt the zen.
Before we knew it, our massage therapists found us and led us up to the treatment rooms. My daughter (a D1 athlete) got a Swedish massage to loosen up her muscles, and I opted for the less intense river stone massage. I quickly felt any remaining stress melt away on the treatment table. Mission accomplished.
At the end of our treatments, we met back up on the deck and were treated to a mimosa to toast a perfect mother-daughter day.
A Girls’ Weekend Worth Repeating
Whether you’re golfing, hiking, or taking in the history of Saugerties, you can’t find a better home base than Diamond Mills. Views, spa, great staff—this resort knows the recipe for a successful girls’ weekend.
And the right setting really matters. My girls are 21 and 18 and have wildly different passions and pursuits. One is all about shopping and Broadway, the other trails, adventures, and anything sporty. Fortunately, in my line of work as a travel writer, I can manage a trip for each of them that will have them clearing calendars and telling friends they are off on a girls’ weekend with the same level of enthusiasm as if I were a peer.
Ok, ok, I also admit that picking up the tab for all the trips counts for a lot.
But still. They spend time with me with great enthusiasm.
Fortunately, Ulster County has as much culture as it does adventure. Maybe next time I’ll bring my other daughter and trade the fairways for galleries and shopping. Different itinerary, same goal: more time together.
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