Portillo Ski Week: A Family Vacation That Actually Feels Like One

I’ve been sitting with my Portillo experience for a week now. It was so vastly different from my other skiing adventures, I’ve been wrestling with how to categorize it. And I think I’ve found it: Portillo Ski Week feels like a vacation, not a trip.

Vacation vs. Trip

If you’re the family planner, you know the drill: squeezing in ski days around packed schedules, hoping for snow, stressing over ski school spots, and crossing fingers that the hotel looks better in person. A typical trip can be a blur of logistics and letdowns.

But Portillo is different. No stress. No scrambling. Just skiing, relaxing, and reconnecting. It’s the kind of place where you unpack once, connect with nature, and suddenly realize you’re not checking your phone every five minutes. The Andes rise in every direction, cradling the hotel like a well-kept secret, and there’s a rhythm to the days that gently lulls you into a rhythm quite foreign to American travelers. 

What Makes Portillo So Special?

Portillo is often compared to a luxury cruise ship in the mountains, but that undersells its magic. Cruises are passive; Portillo is an immersive adventure. Here, you wake up to an Andes sunrise over a crystalline lake, not another buffet line. 

There’s something about the simplicity of the experience that resonates. Ski families will find fewer choices, but more depth. With just one dining room and one main base area it is deceptively simple, but trust me, this is a spot that will provide plenty of surprise and delight. This South American destination allows snow lovers to tap into the joy of winter during the hottest days of summer in places like Dallas, Atlanta and New York City.

Getting There

• Flight: We booked a direct Latam Air flight (a Delta partner) from JFK to Santiago (approx. 9.5 hours). Despite a back injury, first class helped make the journey bearable.
• Transfer: From Santiago, it’s a 93-mile (149 km) drive. We pre-arranged a private shuttle through Portillo for $510 round-trip (+tips).
• Reality Check: Don’t trust the “2.5 hour” drive estimate. Weather and traffic pushed ours closer to 4 hours both ways.

While Santiago’s roads are modern, once you approach the Andes, conditions change. Modern highways give way to tight mountain roads flanked by towering peaks. The final stretch—27 numbered switchbacks—is not for the faint of heart, but it sets the tone. 

Ski Mom Tip: Don’t rent a car. Roads near the resort include 27 unguarded switchbacks—better to leave it to the pros.

Upon arrival, you’ll see a large, boldly painted block of a hotel—Soviet in shape but colorful and welcoming. It’s quirky, confident, and utterly unpretentious.

A Brief History of Portillo

Founded in 1949 as a state-run hotel, Portillo was later privatized and transformed into the iconic destination it is today. Thanks to the vision of American businessman Robert W. Purcell and his nephew Henry (still at the helm), Portillo has built a legacy of high-alpine hospitality. Now in its 76th season, it remains a beloved escape for skiers worldwide. 

The spirit of Portillo feels like a family tradition passed down through generations—not just among guests, but among the staff. Many have worked here for decades, like the “cruise director” Felipe who greets every guest at the resort and is easy to spot on the slopes with his mega-watt grin and vintage 1980’s ski apparel. There’s a palpable pride in what the staff at Portillo does, and it shines through in every interaction.

The Hotel

There are 123 rooms in the main hotel. In addition, there are a few premium chalets, a hostel and the Octagon, a more budget-friendly lodging located on the resort grounds.

• Rooms: We stayed in Room 521 with lake views. Modern, spacious, and recently renovated. The window framed a view so breathtaking, I paused every morning just to take it in—a mirror-flat lake beneath jagged snow-draped peaks.
• Layout: The hotel spans seven floors, with:
  • Rooms: Floors 1–7
  • Lobby: Floor 1
  • Restaurant & Bar: Floor 2
  • Slopes, Gym & Storage: Floor 0

Note: Hallways could use a refresh, but the lobby retains classic alpine charm.

• Service: Housekeeping is excellent, and staff are consistently attentive.
• You should know: the septic system is delicate. No one flushes toilet paper here. You’ll toss papers (all the TP) into trash cans. The staff makes sure the cans are emptied often.

Finding Your Rhythm

By day two, we were in the groove. No early morning scrambles. No chaos. Just quiet mornings and full days.

Typical Day:

• Morning gym or stretch class (don’t miss Martin’s 8:30am warm-up)
• A relaxed breakfast in slippers and fleece
• Slipping into warm ski boots that Javier already has waiting
• Leisurely access to the slopes (no lift lines, no stress)
• Optional lessons steps from the locker room
• Ski until lunch, then relax

5pm Tea Time: A daily ritual with baked goods and sandwiches, perfect for refueling post-slopes. The dining room buzzes with ski stories, rosy cheeks, and cocoa-sipping kids.

Evenings:

• Soak in one of three outdoor pools (each a different temperature)
• Watch the sun melt behind the Andes as steam rises around you
• Book a massage ($60/hour—highly recommend, especially after travel)
• Enjoy dinner, then:
  • Live music in the bar
  • Movie in the theater (English or Spanish)
  • Games and reading in the library
  • Or venture to the disco (livelier in August)

It’s a rare gift to feel so taken care of, while still feeling completely free.

For the Kids

There’s far more than just ski school:

• Basketball arena (yes, full-size)
• Climbing wall with supervision
• Foosball, billiards, ping pong
• Daily crafts and indoor soccer tournaments
• Entertainment desk to guide the day and offer gentle structure
• Free daycare for little ones—clean, well-lit, and warmly staffed

Kids at Portillo seem to glow. There’s just enough freedom for adventure, with just enough oversight to keep it all safe and smooth. They roam the halls in ski socks, dart in and out of craft rooms, and play cards by the fireplace while parents sip wine.

The Food

Meals are included (except on-mountain dining):

• Breakfast: Simple and fast—fruit, rolls, eggs, cereals, ham & cheese. Not fancy, but satisfying.
• Lunch: Soups, fresh salads (always crisp and vibrant), pastas, fish, and desserts. Thoughtfully prepared, never heavy.
• Dinner: Appetizer + elevated mains (sea bass, gnocchi, lamb chops) + dessert. Pacing is more relaxed, and service is warm.
• Wine: Delicious Chilean bottles available; you can store unfinished bottles to enjoy later

You’ll choose early or late seating and keep that schedule all week. Our favorite ritual: lingering over dessert as the dining room hummed with soft conversation and candlelight.

What It Costs

Most guests book the all-inclusive Ski Week (7 nights from Saturday to Saturday), but an abbreviated 3-night week of Wednesday to Saturday is available:

• Estimated Cost: $3,500–$6,000 per person depending on room and season
• Add-ons: Massages, alcohol, lessons, and gift shop purchases
• Our Total Add-Ons: Around $750 for wine, spa, and souvenirs

Yes, it’s an investment. But compared to similar U.S. ski destinations, the experience—and ease—makes it feel like a bargain. The value is in the peace, the family time, and the curated joy that’s nearly impossible to find at home.

Final Thoughts

Americans often over-engineer family ski trips. Portillo is a powerful reminder that it doesn’t have to be that way. We found our flow state here—no friction, no fuss.

As I watched Brazilian families laugh and stroll to dinner with toddlers in tow, I realized how different our expectations are back home. There was no shouting. No rushing. 

Want something novel, exciting, and genuinely relaxing? Brush up on your Spanish and book a Ski Week at Portillo. It’s an adventure, a cultural immersion, and a chance to finally exhale.

Because sometimes, moms deserve a vacation too—and this one delivers.

Listen and Learn

In this episode we meet Maureen Poshman who shares an insiders take on Portillo.

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