Tucked high in the Chilean Andes near the Argentine border, Portillo is not your typical ski resort—and that’s exactly what makes it special. With sweeping views of Laguna del Inca, crowd-free slopes, and a resort culture rooted in tradition, Portillo offers a rare blend of natural beauty and timeless charm. Skiers don’t just come here for the vertical; they come for the vibe.
We’ve previously covered the iconic Hotel Portillo and the quirky lift system that includes the infamous “slingshot” pomas. But now it’s time to dive into the real magic of Portillo: the skiing. Whether you’re here to carve groomers, chase powder, or simply take in the otherworldly scenery, Portillo delivers a memorable mountain experience unlike any other.
Momtrends Media
What Defines Portillo
If you only remember three things about Portillo, let them be these:
- It is beautiful.
- It is uncrowded.
- It offers a wide variety of terrain.
Each morning begins with a moment of awe. As the sun rises and illuminates Laguna del Inca, the surrounding peaks emerge in sharp contrast against the sky. With no trees or alpine villages dotting the landscape, the setting feels surreal—raw and powerful. Even on our eighth straight day of skiing, we found ourselves giddy as we clicked into our bindings.
Unlike many resorts that cater to high volumes of day-trippers, Portillo maintains an intimate feel. Most visitors book week-long or mini-week stays, meaning the mountain never feels crowded. No lift lines. No aggressive bottlenecks. Just wide-open runs and staff that remembers your name.
And while the mountain may look compact at first glance, don’t be fooled. Portillo’s terrain is full of surprises, from playful beginner zones to steep bowls and off-piste challenges. With a single base area and a tight-knit layout, navigation is straightforward—but the skiing is anything but simple.
One of Portillo’s four slingshot lifts
The Portillo Highlight Reel
Western Side
- La Laguna Lift & David’s Run
The scenic standout. A short ride with big views of the lake below, this lift delivers skiers to one of the best groomers at the resort: David’s Run. Smooth, fast, and wide open—ideal for warm-up laps. - Juncalillo Run
When open, this is the mountain’s longest run. It snakes its way down into the valley with a lovely mix of groomed snow and hidden powder stashes. During our visit, snow cover didn’t reach the base of the return lift, so a short walk and a charming (though occasionally slow) resort shuttle ride was required. Still, the untouched snow made it more than worth the effort. - Roca Jack
Home to one of Portillo’s famed “slingshot” pomas, Roca Jack serves up advanced, wide-open terrain that’s a powder hound’s dream. It didn’t open during our stay, but its reputation as a must-ski remains intact.
Eastern Side
- Las Lomas Lift
Ideal for families and newer skiers. This dedicated beginner area is perfectly laid out to shield skiers from faster traffic. Runs like Bajada del Tren (yes, there’s a real train tunnel!) and El Gaucho are great for building confidence. - Plateau Lift & Bowl
The workhorse of the mountain. Plateau offers long laps with epic views and steeper pitches. For hot laps, stick to the main Plateau run (a solid black diamond by U.S. standards). For more adventure, traverse to the Plateau Superior bowl, which held pristine snow for days during our visit.
Momtrends Media
Iconic Runs and Experiences
- The Lake Run
A stunning descent that skirts the trail to Tio Bob’s and then drops toward the lake. Be sure to catch the left-hand cat track back to the lift—miss it, and you’re hiking. - Garganta
Translating to “throat,” this run offers two main chutes—and a third option that’s more jump than trail. The “big throat” opens up quickly after a tight entry. The “little throat” is not for the faint of heart. Pro tip: don’t attempt it unless you’re confident and skilled. - The Condor
Our favorite powder stash. Accessed via a quad poma, this upper-mountain playground stays fresh thanks to high altitude and limited sun exposure. Even days after the last storm, we found soft turns and uncrowded lines.
Momtrends Media
What to Know Before You Go
Terrain Expectations
Portillo has excellent beginner terrain and thrilling advanced runs—but a notable gap when it comes to easy blues. If you’re transitioning from green runs, prepare for a steeper learning curve. Fortunately, the ski school is superb.
Trail Markings & Safety
Trails are not always clearly marked. It’s easy to accidentally end up somewhere you’re not prepared for. We strongly recommend taking a guided lesson on day one. One family we met ended up on the expert-only Garganta run after a casual lunch at Tio Bob’s—and had to call ski patrol for help.
Ski School & Guides
Portillo’s ski instruction is world-class. Led by Katie White, the team is deeply experienced and especially adept at family instruction. Private guides are a fantastic investment here, and prices are surprisingly affordable by North American standards.
Momtrends Media
Rentals, Storage, and Altitude
Equipment
The resort has a solid rental fleet of skis and snowboards. We brought our own, which worked well for the early-season conditions.
Storage
Once you arrive, your gear lives downstairs—no schlepping required.
Altitude Awareness
At 9,500 feet, Portillo’s elevation is no joke. Hydrate, avoid alcohol for the first couple of days, and consider baby aspirin to ease the transition. Learn more in our Altitude Awareness Guide.
When to Go and Who It’s For
Families
Early season (late June to early July) offers value pricing, small crowds, and a relaxed atmosphere. While expert terrain may not be fully open, families will find ideal conditions for learning and exploring.
Experienced Skiers
August is the sweet spot. Powder is more likely, and the steeps are typically open. You’ll share the slopes with pros and ski teams from around the world training on the famous surfaces.
During our trip, most visitors were South American families, which meant the advanced terrain stayed nearly empty—another perk for seasoned skiers looking to lap untouched snow.
Momtrends Media
Portillo’s Racing Culture
Portillo isn’t just a pretty place—it’s a pillar of ski racing history. The 1966 World Championships put this mountain on the global stage. And while there hasn’t been a championship since, Portillo remains a go-to training ground for elite race teams.
The hotel walls are lined with photos of ski legends—from Bode Miller to Lindsey Vonn—who’ve made tracks here. And guests are invited to join in the fun.
- Thursday GS Race
A timed giant slalom course is set up each week on Plateau. It’s $15 to register and open to any confident skier. My husband (a recreational skier at best) earned a bronze medal in the 50+ category—a charming memento. - Youth Races
Ski School participants can join a beginner race with an award ceremony held Friday night in the hotel living room. Even non-racers will enjoy the celebration. - Mini Course for Kids
Set up on the bunny hill, this informal race is a fun introduction to Portillo’s alpine spirit.
The Torchlight Parade
Capping off each ski week is Portillo’s unforgettable torchlight parade. Guests are invited to participate—yes, with real flames. Katie White oversees the group and ensures only strong skiers join the descent. From the Plateau, skiers form a snaking line of fire, ending in a ceremonial circle around a bonfire.
Guests not skiing can watch safely from the lodge deck, where marshmallows and mulled wine set the scene for a cozy celebration.
Momtrends Media
On-Mountain Dining
The Ski Box
Perfect for snacks and drinks, this casual outdoor spot sits right at the beginner area. You’ll find espresso in the morning and champagne by afternoon. We spotted one stylish ski mom knitting with a glass of Veuve in hand—an energy we fully support.
Tio Bob’s
Part cultural institution, part party spot, Tio Bob’s is a must. With a rustic interior and one of the best patios in skiing, this on-mountain restaurant is where pisco sours flow freely and friendships are formed. On sunny days, the deck becomes a scene, complete with music, laughter, and endless lake views.
One one per skier please!
Final Thoughts
After 92 ski days across 35 resorts, Portillo still stands out. It’s not the place to chase vertical records or après hotspots. It’s a place to reconnect with what makes skiing joyful—unspoiled terrain, personal touches, and the simple pleasure of sliding down a mountain under the South American sun.
Whether you’re a first-timer, a family looking to escape the summer heat, or a seasoned skier chasing winter into July, Portillo is a gem worth discovering.
Ready to plan your Portillo adventure? Pack your skis, bring your spirit of adventure, and don’t forget the sunscreen. Chile’s snow is calling.
Listen and Learn
In this episode we meet Maureen Poshman who shares an insiders take on Portillo.
